Hair Science Friday!!!

Well, Hair Science Friday is here and I was lucky enough to receive a question about one of my favorite topics....ba bum ba bah!!!! Product! The question was, "What is the difference between mousse and gel, and how do I use them and not abuse them?"  One of the biggest complaints from clients is about getting their hair to style the way they want it to. Using the right product with the right method can make all the difference between a good hair day and a bad hair day, so here we go!

The difference between the two is both chemical and structural. Mousse, simply put, is a lightweight and foamy chemical compound consisting of water, alcohol, conditioners and silicons, all playing a special part in the make-up of the mousse. Different fragrances may be added as well. Mousse works by coating the hair and expanding as the hair dries, thus giving your hair volume and lift.


Mousse is great for blow drying and giving your curls a soft and natural look. However, because it contains alcohol, I would use in moderation and make sure I am using the right one as it can dry out your hair and cause frizz or "poof".  For curly hair I recommend Bumble and Bumble Curl Conscious Holding Foam. If you are looking for volume, and mousse just isn't cutting it you can try a thickening spray like this Bumble and Bumble Thickening Spray.  This works like mousse in that it coats the hair, almost adding another layer allowing the strands to "thicken", so to speak. A thickening spray is great if you blow dry a lot and want a lot of volume at the roots.


 Hair gel, like mousse, has alcohol and water, but in addition has plasticizing agent and water-soluble polymer.  It is the plasticizing agent that reacts with water to create the strong hold that gel is so well known for.  I personally am not a fan of gel.  Don't get me wrong, I will use it from time to time, but I prefer the soft natural look over the firm and "shellacked" look of gel.


However, there is a time and a place for gel.  For example, if I were wanting to take a style from wet to dry (fingerwaves, setting curls, spiking hair) and it needed a lot of hold, more so than what hair spray or wax could give, for that situation I would use a high quality gel like the one by KMS California.  Products like this offer a nice flake-free hold.  I would use it in moderation, probably mixed with a few other styling agents. While gel produces a strong hold, many people fall victim to the crunchy, flaky, and sticky mess it can leave behind. My favorite way of using it is to mix with a styling cream and maybe even a shine serum.  A small dab of each should do the trick. Mixing it with other agents adds a strong hold to your style and allows you to take advantage of the other styling aid's benefits. For example, mixing it with a curl cream and shine serum will keep curls shiny, frizz-free and with added hold. Just remember to thoroughly wash out to avoid build-up which, over time, can make your hair seem dull and dry.

The second question I will answer is from one of my friends who wants to donate her hair. Her questions and concerns were in regards to the condition of her hair (the dreaded split ends) and if it is still qualifies for donation, and if she should, in the meantime, trim it or leave it.

First off, I think donating ones hair is one of the most charitable things someone could do. People don't realize the impact that can have on someones life.The main company and actually the only company I really know of to accept donated hair would be Locks of Love. When I first started doing hair there seemed to be a lot of confusion on what hair would be and would not be accepted. Upon visiting their website I have discovered that their requirements are not as strict as I once thought they to be. They accept all hair types, curly and straight, permed and colored. However if your hair has ever been lightened, meaning if you have ever put bleach in your hair weather all over or not and if you have ever bleached and then colored over the bleach, it is not acceptable due to the chemical processing of the hair when it is made into a wig. Of course dreads are not either :) So sorry man. Basically if your hair (including your shortest layers) reach ten inches long, it will be accepted. If you wish to view the guidelines you can view them here. 


As far as split ends go, I would definitely get a trim. Split ends, over time, can break causing messy looking and damaged hair, in the mean time, making the growing out process seem much longer because of the breakage. I would also recommend doing a protein treatment such as Joico K-Pak. A little on the pricey side but totally, 100% worth it. Use once a week, as it is a protein rich treatment and over use can cause hair to become brittle. I luv luv luv it though. I used this on all clients with damaged, or chemically treated hair and it was the salons best selling item. 


Kayla asked," I went from brown to blonde a few months ago-still working on it and now I have a couple small strands of orange. Uh, yuck. Should I just keep slowly highlighting it?"


Kayla, I have been in that same situation before! The reason your hair does this is because the darker your hair is the more red pigmentation there is and the more it is exposed during the lightening process. This is the most stubborn pigment to remove because it is the largest pigment, usually the pretty red tones you see in brown hair are the first tones to leave, leaving the next largest pigment which is that ugly orangey tone. If you are trying to go blonde, keep going!!! You will get there. Just make sure that it is a gradual process so you don't damage your hair and realize that it may take a few more visits to the salon before you get the look you want. Talk with your stylist about what developer she is using. While using a high developer may make it seem like you are speeding up the process, you can literally fry off your hair and even expose more orange than you want to. Using a low developer ( a 10 volume to 20 volume) is a slower and more gentle way of getting your hair lighter. If you hate seeing those yucky copper tones ask your stylist to use a toner on your hair that is rich in cool tones. For example, if you are seeing a lot of red you should tone with a toner that has green pigments as green neutralizes red. Meanwhile try shampooing with a violet shampoo like Joico Color Endure. It is rich in violet pigment which will help tone down the orange pigments in the hair thus keeping your blonde nice and "clean" looking.  

Sarah posed a question that I think all women struggle with, "My hair is super super flat and has no body. Is there an EASY way to fix this that won't take too much time? My hair is long. Is that why it's flat? Do I need to cut my hair to have volume?"


There are a lot of reasons that could be contributing to your body dilemma. I would say two easy ways of fixing the issue would be to reassess what products you are using and how you use them. A great styling agent, that is light weight and won't weigh down the hair is the Bumble and Bumble thickening spray I mentioned above. Spray through your hair, starting at the roots and then work through your ends. Section your hair into three or four sections, starting at the top (crown and sides) and moving your way down, clipping sections out of the way. Take the top section down and with a brush (round or flat) over-direct your hair blow-drying from the roots down. For example, take that section and blow dry towards the left, then right, forward and then backward. If you have a large round brush go ahead and place it as close to the roots as you can and set the dryer there for a minute to achieve lift. Another awesome product to use is Aveda Pure Abundace Hair Potion, it is magic. Place a small amount in your palm and work into the roots and style. It will amaze you. It starts as a powder and turns to liquid, it adds texture and lift to the roots...you just have to see it to believe it, it is so awesome. 


Next, you may want to consider some layers. If your hair is thick or heavy in texture it may be weighing itself down. Ask your stylist to help you out by getting some shorter layers put through the top and maybe even having your hair textured out. Texturing the hair shatters the hair shaft and creates small pieces of hair throughout the style that push upwards creating the illusion of lift. Having your hair textured is not for every hair type, so talk to your stylist to see if that would be a good option for you.  I hope that helped! 


This next question took me a little off-guard, but I think it is a really good question for those in this same situation, "When do you know when it's time for a wig? Like, how much hair has to be gone from your head to get one? And how hot are they? I've pretty much given up on restoring the fallen out hair at this point. Also, if you were going to get one, would you be subtle, or go bold? Get a couple different lengths and change it up daily?"


If I were in this situation, I would go ahead and purchase a wig now, saving myself the frustration of trying to find an in-between style.There are lots of different choices when it comes to buying a wig and I think it is a matter of trial and error and what feels most comfortable to you. Try googeling local wig shops and don't forget to read the reviews to make sure that it is a reputable place to go. There are really so many options when it comes to wigs. They are available in all different colors and lengths. If I were to buy a wig, I would buy something subtle and natural looking and maybe one that is more fancy. Up until recently I always wanted to buy one with really long curly hair  because my hair was always short and straight. I think you should have fun with it, get a wig with a style you have always wanted! More and more wigs are also made of natural human hair, which allows you to heat style them. I would purchase one that you could style on your own so that you can give yourself versatility. Make sure that you can try it on, as buying a wig is an investment and can be expensive. You want to make sure that if (for example) you buy a red haired wig, that red looks good on you. I want to stress, what a common problem hair loss is and it really does effect more people than you would know. I have had several female clients (as young as 21) who suffer from hair loss. There are more and more options out there than there used to be. If you are losing your hair and it is bothering you, don't let it bother you anymore! Go and get a cute wig! Have fun with it and enjoy all the compliments you will get, no one will ever know!  


Well folks, there she be! This concludes our session of Hair Science Friday. If you have questions or ideas for my next session please submit under comments and I will gladly answer them next Friday. Until then, have a wonderful weekend!

Back to Basics: Hair Care 101

So I was washing my hair one day enjoying a lovely scalp massage and it occurred to me as I was rinsing that not all of us know the basic hair care techniques I love and cherish :) Yes, there is a correct way to wash and condition, to towel dry, and to even brush. Implementing these basic techniques can and will give you optimal results when it comes to your hair. Whether it is maintaining your color or achieving a smooth style, practicing proper hair care ( yes, the basics!) can help make all your hair dreams come true!

Good shampooing and conditioning is the first step to creating a masterpiece. When looking for a shampoo look for something acidic as opposed to alkaline. Your hair is made up of tiny scales called cuticles. Products that are too alkaline burst open the cuticle causing your dye and beneficial oils to come out; acid closes the cuticle giving you sleek and lovely hair. Steer clear of sulfates (the detergents that make your shampoo foam) and products full of silicon and oils (they coat the hair and make it look dull and greasy). Foamy shampoo does not equal great shampoo.  Some of the best shampoo I have ever used didn't foam at all but it kept my color in tip-top shape and made my hair shine like silk.

 If your product claims to have something beneficial in it (for example Argan Oil) make sure you read the label and see if it is in the shampoo. Don't pay for something that isn't there. Last but not least, cool water is better than hot. Hot water bursts the cuticle open and cool water closes it.  This is important for those of us who dye our hair and want to go longer in between salon visits.

By properly shampooing your hair you can actually save money. Proper hair care extends the visits you make to the salon thus keeping your pocket full of that hard earned green stuff.

Steps for shampooing your hair
1. Wet hair
2.Start at the scalp- Many of us (myself included sometimes) put a whole bunch of shampoo on our hands and lather up mid-shaft to ends and kind of get the roots. However, it is important to start scrubbing at the scalp.  Then, move on to your hair roots.  The roots are where the oils from our scalp are mostly at, so scrub those first and then work the shampoo down into the ends.
3. Rinse out thoroughly with cool water and repeat once more if your hair is especially dirty.  If you are a product junkie you may want to repeat so that you get all the product out, if not just go on to conditioning.  Over-shampooing your hair is not the best either.
4. Ring out your hair! If you put conditioner on right after you rinse you give your hair no chance of absorbing any of the conditioner! Ring out or towel dry your hair.
5. Condition. This is opposite shampooing in terms of application. Do not condition the roots! This can make your hair look greasy. Start mid-shaft and comb through your ends.
6. Rinse. Cool water, please, so that you smooth out the cuticle.
7. Don't over-shampoo! For goodness sakes, you don't need to wash twice a day or even once a day. It is best to wash every two to three days, and if your hair gets especially oily and dirty try to go a day in between.

Styling 101

I luv... Product!!!!

Here is a list of the products I luv to use they each bring a little something different when it comes to styling.



Paul Mitchell Spray Wax    I luv the control and texture that comes from spray wax excellent if you want to add texture and definition at the end of a style.





Paul Mitchell Super Clean Spray  I like to use this in combo with the Hold Me Tight, great working spray with good hold that leaves a clean-run-your-fingers-through-it finish.




Paul Mitchell Hold Me Tight  Layer as you go for excellent hold and volume.


Molding Mud  Heat up to create a sleek, tight hold, or use to help give hold, volume, and texture.


Sabastian Ultra-Firm Finishing Spray  Great hold at the end of a style... excellent hairspray.

Aveda Pure Abundance Hair Potion   Awesome magical product that goes from powder to cream in the palm of your hand. Use at the roots for volume or for that grungy-just-went-surfing texture.


Marilyn Boar Bristle Brush  Amazing round brush gives volume and shine.

Redken Spray Starch 15  Good for those of us who have fine or coarse hard-to-curl hair use in combo with the Pure Abundance and Paul Mitchell Super Clean Spray and you can add lots of volume and curl to otherwise limp and lifeless hair.


Argan Oil from Sally's   Love to use as a heat protectant and to smooth those pesky fly-aways.